When my friend was driving me to the airport to leave on this adventure he asked me what I thought a typical day would be like for me. I said that was hard to answer but I imagined getting up in the AM, heading off to a local cafe for my morning cappuccino and cornetto/ brioche (pastry) and then I would either write in my blog or read. Later I would take an afternoon walk to see the city sights returning in the evening to prepare dinner. I had already planned several trips to see other parts of Italy and neighboring countries. Day trips to Florence and Venice on the high-speed trains were also options for me.
Well, life in Bologna has been far from what I imagined. My first two weeks were consumed by my Italian classes and the ensuing days getting adjusted to life here. I never expected to make friends so quickly and they often call me to go out with them in the day or for evening aperitivos. I realize city life is different from living on an island off the coast of Maine but European cities and Bologna in particular have a strong current pulsing with activities that energize as you join the flow.
Europe loves to live outside, much more than the United States. Their cities tempt you to join in, even in November in the cold and rain. By the harbor in Copenhagen people sit outside for drinks and conversation wrapped in tartan blankets provided by the bars. I love to watch the TV program “House Hunters International” to see how people live elsewhere. And a common complaint from potential renters is the small living spaces to which the rental agent always replies “outside is your living room” and it is true. I find it hard to sit here and write my blog when I could be outside doing so many things, especially on a weekend.
Bologna has a youthful vibe due to the 100,000 or so students here at the University. There are nightly gatherings at the bars and cafes that last late into the morning. I know- there is one outside my window! On the weekends the city swells with crowds coming in from nearby towns, students visiting or tourists sampling the food for which it is renown. On Saturdays the main shopping streets are packed and local street artists create elaborate chalk drawings on the newly laid pavement. The evening looks like New York City rush hour as people leave these areas and head towards the cafes and restaurants. On Sundays it is quiet in the morning as people sleep off the night before. Then the city starts to come alive and the cafes are packed with those seeking their shot of espresso to jumpstart their morning as others stroll along the streets and window shop. Most stores are closed on Sundays though you do see some large chain stores open in the shopping areas.
And Bologna warmly reaches out and embraces those who come to partake. This weekend is the monthly antiques market in Piazza Santo Stefano with a myriad of items from all periods to tempt you.The people of Bologna love Jazz- even one of the nearby streets has a walk of stars with people like Miles Davis emblazoned in the walk. This month Bologna hosts a major Jazz festival with renowned world musicians. More of a Blues person than Jazz, I am not familiar with the names but others speak their names with reverence. Local musicians setup in the streets that are closed to weekend traffic to show off their budding skills.
Last weekend Bologna sponsored Trekking Urbano- walking tours of the city both in Italian and English, though the number of Italian tours far outweighed the 3 English tours. I signed up for all; one on Saturday morning about the history of Bologna and an afternoon tour of its famous towers that found me climbing a 200 foot tower for the views.
Tower stairs
Sunday morning started with a tour of the local pasta shops followed by a pasta making demonstration of Bolognese pasta and capped off with a lunch enjoying a sampling of the creations. During these tours I met a retired woman from Toronto taking a month-long language course to coincide with the Jazz Festival. I also encountered a young woman from San Francisco spending 3 months in a town in Emilia-Romagna where her great-grandparents once lived. Another woman I connected with was from England taking advantage of the cheap fares to fly in for a few days of sampling Bologna and just loved it.
Bologna has numerous appellations La Grossa- the Fat- for the butter and lard once heavily used in their food- La Dotta- the Learned- for its famous University, founded in 1088 and the oldest in Europe and La Rossa- the Red for the red color of the buildings and roofs and in the 60’s for its Communist leanings.
And Bologna remains a political city today with parades and demonstrations and people literally on boxes spewing out their views in the main piazza. Today I am told will be a big political happening. Meeting my friend last night at the famous fountain of Neptune, I found him enclosed in a massive cage with a large amount of police and military vehicles around Piazza Maggiore (the main piazza) with the corresponding personnel armed and looking vigilant. It is not surprising to see soldiers in the area, often checking your bags when you visit the Basilica of San Petronio in Piazza Maggiore. But today Berlusconi, the controversial former president of Italy (aka the Italian Trump) is speaking at a political rally and there is concern for assaults or outbreaks. My friend admonished me to stay away though there is a part of me that wants to see this part of Italian life though I would not want to get caught up in anything that could have me deported! As I sit here the Sunday stillness is broken by the sound of helicopters overhead. Peering out my window I see everyone with heads turned upward, wondering what this could portend.
Ah, but I must go now and meet a friend for my cappuccino and brioche. And then there are still so many things to do: the Brueghel showing, the new Egyptian exhibit at the Archaeology Museum and in a few days the scrumptious chocolate show just steps away from my apartment. And soon the Christmas markets will start to pop up in the various piazzas and cities and towns- oh my! Ciao Ciao!!!
Update: I had to pass by some of the marchers to meet my friend. Things seemed peaceful though I was told that a computer had been hacked at the Bologna train station last night to disrupt train service. It is late afternoon now and although the manifestation as it is called ended earlier, helicopters still pass overhead.
