I’ve been busy visiting some of the festivals I had mentioned in my previous post.  After sampling truffles and chocolates and perusing some art exhibits, I finally made my plans to visit Padova or as we call it in the US, Padua.

Estate di San Martino

November 11 celebrates the summer of Saint Martin. Like so many traditions it is tied to a religious figure. Martin was a soldier in the Roman army and legend has it that one day he came upon a freezing beggar and cut his military cloak in half to share with him. Supposedly he then shared his remaining half with another and because of this God sent the sun to keep Martin warm. In Italy we experience warmer weather this time of November attributed to this, similar to Indian summer in the US. And Martin eventually became a saint and patron to pilgrims.

So with his good weather still prevailing and thoughts of November 11 also being a day a remembrance I set off for Padova mid-week. I arrived in Padova with the sun shining and me shedding layers down to a light silk sweater.

I had been to Padova in 2012 when I first came to this area on my quest to find my Italian home. People day trip here from Venice as it is less than 30 minutes by train. And like so many day trippers I had visited the famous Scrovegni Chapel with Giotto’s amazing frescos and made a pilgrimage to the Basilica of St Anthony. This time I intended to really explore the city with an overnight stay.  But I also had a particular place I felt compelled to see that is either unknown or overlooked by many Americans.

Memoria e luce- Memory and light

In researching Padova awhile ago I discovered that it had a memorial to 9/11 dedicated on that date in 2005. There are several in Europe but this is the largest and the only one containing a piece of the original World Trade Center. Designed by the architect Daniel Libeskind,he also won the competition for the master plan for the new World Trade Center. For those who do not know me, I worked in New York City for 20 years with my family originally born and bred in its boroughs. I know people who lost family and friends in this cowardly attack and so I knew I must visit this memorial.

Memoria e luce- Memory and light

It is set off from the main road that leads from the train station to the center of Padova so it could be easily missed. Or you may glance at it as you walk by on your way to the Scrovegni Chapel not realizing what it is. Set down by the river, it stands as a sentinel to the memory of the heroes who lost their lives on that tragic day in September.  The memorial is surrounded by a historic stone foundation that was discovered when the site was excavated.

You approach through a sloping walkway from a small park area. It appears the most common visitors are those relieving their dogs which seemed like a dishonor to the sacredness I felt as I approached. There is an inscription in the small wall on your left as you walk down to the memorial.

Memoria e luce dedication

Wall of Sept 11 Memorial – Padova Italy

From here I walked down to the memorial and was immediately overwhelmed by the 56 foot structure of glass. The design is of an open book resembling the twin towers shimmering glass facade.

The light of Liberty shines through the Book of History. This Book is open to the memory of the heroes of September 11, 2001.” —Daniel Libeskind (1946– )

Book of history- Sept 11 memorial Padova

But what started my tears flowing was the embedded mangled beam from the south tower still showing its original number from when it was constructed. Observing this immense beam you could sense the strain of the collapsing building that caused this destruction. The open book is facing in the direction of the Statue of Liberty.

Mangled beam from Sept 11 Memorial Padova Italy

Twisted beam – World Trade Center

It is a powerful memorial towering over you yet also enveloping you within it.  For those like myself who once stood inside those majestic structures pulsing with activity and remembering all those lives lost that day it engulfed me with grief. Maybe it is good that the place is so deserted as it allows you to let your emotions flow freely.

Shining tower of light

I had read that  just the book was lit up at night so after the sun had set I walked back to see it illuminated. I did not walk all the way down as the surrounding area was deserted but I did capture its  glow. And when I looked at it shining against the night sky, it now felt like a beacon of hope and I came away with a more peaceful feeling.

Memoria e luce at night

Why Padova, Italy

You may wonder how did this memorial wind up here in Italy, and not in a more visited and visible location.

The beam was first shown at the American Pavilion, part of the 2002 Venice Biennale. The U.S. State Department later donated the 19.6-foot-long I-beam to Italy’s Veneto Region. It was then given to Padova, which is part of this region.
The choice of Padua as an ideal location for the monument was summarized by the American consul Deborah Grace, at the laying of the foundation stone:

“Padua is a city that has a long tradition of tolerance, which houses one of the oldest universities in Europe, where Galileo Galilei’s teaching has left its mark … [in fact] Padua is the cradle of civilization and culture, […] since the Middle Ages, when students from all over Europe came to these streets […] Padua still teaches us that we should not be afraid of science […] We must instead be afraid of the ignorance and intolerance that are the main causes of violence and fanaticism. “

Remembering the past as lessons for the future

Looking at these words spoken during the laying of the foundation stone, it gave me pause and reminded me how important those reflections were then and still are today.

If you are in Italy please make sure to include this as part of your enrichment. Italy and America have been intertwined for so many years. I know many visit Italy to learn about their heritage and seek relatives of those who emigrated to America for a better life. And so it is fitting that this piece of America is honored here in Italy as part of that shared heritage.

Never forget! 11 settembre 2001

P.S. The summer of St Martin has ended as a Russian cold front moves in.  But it sets the stage for my next adventures- Christmas Markets! And I still have more information about Padova to share.